Ambergris in perfumery
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The warm notes of ambergris
The smell of ambergris varies depending on the origin of the lumps and their time spent floating in the ocean. As a result, ambergris offers many facets. Woody, camphoric, animal, even fecal odors, smells of tobacco, musk, but also notes of the sea, seaweed, sea urchins, or even dead fish can be detected. Ambergris is renowned for its warm notes. It provides warmth, tenacity, and even a sweet sensuality to the wearer. In addition, it brings harmony to the compositions, a quality rarely found with other raw materials. A beautiful tribute is paid to it with the perfume Ambre Gris by Balmain. The tenacious notes of ambergris are excellent fixatives, which is why they are mainly found in base notes. Today, only synthetic materials are used to reproduce this wonderful fragrance that is ambergris.
Ambergris and its marriage to olfactory families
Thanks to its fixing power and its natural harmony, ambergris is found in many compositions. It goes particularly well with notes such as vanilla, sandalwood, labdanum, white musk, and it is often found in oriental fragrances. As in Dior's Ambre Nuit perfume, where ambergris is naturally positioned as a base note, accompanied by cedarwood and patchouli. Associated with rose and spices, Ambre Nuit is the story of nocturnal seduction. Ambergris can also be found in surprising, floral compositions, such as in Lancôme's Miracle perfume. Here, we recognize the ambergris always positioned in the base note. In the heart, a wonderful floral bouquet, composed of jasmine and magnolia brings sensuality amid musky and ambergris notes. As a result, it is a perfume at the forefront of femininity, dynamic, and above all very modern.
Initially, ambergris comes from sperm whales. Irregularly shaped lumps with varying colors are found washed up on the coasts. Over time, these lumps change colors and smells. The synthetic materials used in perfumery reflect notes renowned for their warmth and sensuality. Ambergris is an excellent fixer and brings real harmony to each perfume. It is true that ambergris, like other animal materials, acts as a pheromone and has a direct effect on the wearer. An undeniable asset for perfumers!
