Iris in perfumery
In This Article
The Alluring Iris: Origins, Characteristics, and Use in Perfumery
The iris, prized for its rhizome – the underground stem of the flower – has long been a sought-after ingredient in perfumery. Perfumers often utilize species such as Iris germanica and Iris pallida, which are cultivated in Italy and Morocco, to obtain iris essence through distillation. Iris is among the most expensive raw materials due to its three-year drying process before distillation, yielding just 2 kg of essential oil from one ton of iris. Known for its delicate powdery, buttery, purple, straw, and woody scent, iris lends an air of prestige and refinement to high-end perfumes.
Fun Fact: Catherine de Medici is credited with introducing the use of iris in fragrances. In the 17th century, iris rhizomes were pounded and sieved, releasing a sweet violet scent – the aroma of irone. Iris is often combined with floral notes or used as a base note.
Iris: A Luxurious Scent for High-End Perfumes
Iris's powdery note stands distinct from the more decadent vanilla note. The term "powdery note" is derived from rice powder, which was originally scented with iris. Iris is characterized by a subtly woody, dry, pastel, purple, and airy scent. Interestingly, the aroma of iris intensifies over time, thanks to irone – a molecule that develops with age. The iris flower itself has a minimal scent;it is the rhizome from which the perfume is extracted that carries the powdery odor. Rhizomes that have matured and dried for 2.5 to 3 years emit a clean, fresh scent, despite their dry nature.
Fun Fact: Distillation of iris produces not an essential oil, but iris butter – a sweet, slightly oily, and delightful substance. Iris absolute is then created by extracting the iris butter with a volatile solvent, similar to the process used for jasmine or rose.
Chanel N°19, a powdery, uplifting, and sensual fragrance, is crafted with pallida from Italy. As this variety becomes less cultivated in Italy, Chanel has chosen to grow iris in their own fields in Grasse, France. They cultivate both Iris pallida and Iris germanica species. The Hermès brand also employs iris in their Hiris and Iris Ukiyoe fragrances from the Hermessence line.
Enduring Popularity of Iris in Contemporary Perfumery
The captivating allure of iris in perfumery has stood the test of time, and its unique scent continues to captivate perfume enthusiasts and creators alike. As a versatile ingredient, iris is frequently incorporated into a diverse range of perfume compositions, from floral to oriental and everything in between. Its unmistakable powdery essence adds depth and elegance to any fragrance, making it a highly sought-after component in the world of perfumery.
Fun Fact: The long-lasting nature of iris's scent makes it an ideal choice for perfumes that require longevity and depth. The enduring aroma of iris will remain present on the skin, creating an unforgettable olfactory experience for those who wear it.
Innovative Blends and New Combinations
Perfumers have continued to explore innovative ways to incorporate iris into modern fragrances. They often experiment with unique combinations, blending iris with other notes like amber, citrus, or spices to create fresh and exciting scents. As a result, the market has witnessed the emergence of many original and enticing iris-based perfumes that cater to a wide range of preferences and tastes.
Fun Fact: Some contemporary perfume houses are harnessing the power of cutting-edge technology to develop synthetic iris notes that closely mimic the natural aroma. This allows for a more sustainable and cost-effective approach to incorporating the beloved iris scent in new fragrance formulations.
Iris: A Timeless Ingredient with a Promising Future
With its rich history, exceptional scent profile, and enduring popularity, it's clear that iris will remain a cherished ingredient in the world of perfumery for years to come. As perfumers continue to push the boundaries of creativity and innovation, we can expect to see even more captivating iris-based fragrances that capture the hearts and noses of perfume enthusiasts around the world.
