Mugwort in perfumery
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Mugwort: An Aromatic Essence in Men's Perfumery
Mugwort, characterized by its camphoric, fresh, herbaceous, and bitter notes, belongs to the aromatic olfactory family, alongside thyme, lavender, and rosemary. Primarily used in men's perfumery, the masculine nature of mugwort makes it a highly sought-after ingredient for fragrance creators. Many perfumers have successfully incorporated mugwort as a top note in exceptional fragrances, such as Cartier's Declaration (1998). In this scent, mugwort combines with tangerine, cilantro, and neroli in the top notes, while the heart notes feature softer elements like jasmine, iris, and cardamom. Base notes of vetiver, cedarwood, amber, and leather emphasize the masculine aspect of the fragrance. Declaration's assertive character is embodied by the presence of mugwort and coriander, resulting in a joyful, enthusiastic, and generous scent that has garnered interest from both men and women.
Complementary Fragrances for Mugwort
As an aromatic ingredient, mugwort pairs exceptionally well with fragrances from the chypre, fern, and woody families. A prime example of a successful blend of aromatic and fern elements is Yves Saint-Laurent's Kouros. In this fragrance, mugwort appears in the top note alongside coriander, bergamot, and bay leaf. The heart notes feature geranium, jasmine, carnation, and cinnamon, while the base notes reveal patchouli, vetiver, amber, and white musk. This ingenious combination gives Kouros an aromatic chypre harmony, resulting in powerful and intense fragrances. The bottle, designed to resemble an athletic deity, reflects the image of an ideal man. Mugwort is occasionally found in middle notes, providing a deeper intensity, as in Eau de Rochas, an elegant citrus fragrance.
Mugwort, an unconventional plant associated with the goddess Artemis, lends a strong and powerful symbolism to perfumes. Primarily found in masculine scents as a top note, mugwort imparts its distinctive camphor-like quality. It has been skillfully combined with fragrances from the fern, chypre, or woody families, giving rise to numerous renowned and distinctly masculine fragrances.
