Roman chamomile in perfumery
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Roman Chamomile: The Divine Flower with a Hint of Green Apple
Roman chamomile, a small field flower, was once consecrated by the Egyptians as it was believed to be dedicated to Ra, the sun god. Its name, derived from ancient Greek, means "dwarf apple," alluding to its pleasant scent. While many historical herbariums document its existence, the United Kingdom has particularly embraced Roman chamomile as one of its nine sacred flowers. To delicately celebrate Queen Elizabeth II's silver jubilee, the British perfume house Penhaligon's created Jubilee Bouquet, a fragrance honoring Her Majesty with enchanting chypre and floral notes, including a Roman chamomile top note.
Today, Roman chamomile is cultivated not only in the United Kingdom but also in France, Italy, and Belgium. Resembling a small daisy, the flower is harvested and distilled to produce an essential oil with both medicinal and olfactory properties.
Exploring Aromatic and Fruity Facets of Roman Chamomile in Fragrances
Although Penhaligon's Jubilee Bouquet highlights the olfactory appeal of Roman chamomile, its use in perfumery remains somewhat limited. Nonetheless, its sweet and powerfully aromatic scent has captured the attention of renowned perfumers, who have utilized it in top notes for both aromatic and floral fragrance families, each seeking to enhance the flower's unique characteristics.
In floral fragrances, Roman chamomile adds a sweet, indulgent touch to fruity florals such as Ralph Lauren's Romance and Cerruti's 1881 for Women, marine florals like Calvin Klein's Escape, and green, gourmet florals like Christian Lacroix's Bazar Summer Fragrance. In a more uncommon pairing, Roman chamomile can also be found in aromatic, woody masculine fragrances, lending power and originality to modern compositions such as Jovoy's The Art of War.
Roman chamomile's olfactory qualities have gradually expanded from floral fragrances for women and aromatic scents for men to more unexpected fragrance families. Its presence can be detected in the top note of Calvin Klein's citrus Eternity Summer for Men, the original and oriental Chaos by Donna Karan, and the famous floral chypre Aromatics Elixir by Clinique.
Embracing the Versatility of Roman Chamomile in Perfumery
As perfumers continue to experiment with Roman chamomile, its use in various fragrance families is likely to grow. Its sweet and aromatic nature lends itself well to both traditional and innovative scents, offering a unique and captivating addition to any fragrance. As the world of perfumery evolves, Roman chamomile's versatility and charm will undoubtedly inspire new, enchanting creations that capture the imagination and delight the senses.