Vetiver in perfumery
In This Article
Exploring Vetiver's Roots and Its Enchanting Smoky Woody Scents
Originating from India and thriving in various tropical regions, vetiver resembles the well-known pampas grasses from the 1970s, boasting slender stems that can grow up to 2 meters in height. The secret to vetiver's alluring fragrance lies in its dried roots, which are distilled to create the captivating scent. The fine leaves, on the other hand, are often utilized as cattle feed.
At the beginning of the 20th century, the olfactory properties of vetiver were relatively unknown, and global production barely reached one ton. However, by 1970, its widespread use in perfumery and aromatherapy led to a record production of 250 tons. Four types of vetiver are commonly used in perfumery: Bourbon (from Reunion Island), Indian, Haitian, and Java vetiver. Although Bourbon vetiver, with its fine and earthy scent and rosy note, remains a perfumer's favorite, it has become increasingly rare.
Woody Scents and Vetiver's Rise in Popularity
For decades, vetiver roots were primarily employed as a fixative for top notes in perfumery. This changed when the renowned Carven House released a perfume called Vetiver in 1957. Its immense success not only showcased vetiver's olfactory qualities but also sparked a trend for woody fragrances.
With its powerful and slightly smoky aroma, vetiver evokes earth and plants, winning the hearts of men in the 1960s. The vibrant woody notes derived from vetiver became a classic in perfumery, with brands such as Guerlain and Givenchy following suit. Women also embraced vetiver, initially discovering it in iconic fragrances like Chanel No. 5 and Calèche by Hermès before adopting it wholeheartedly.
While the potent and smoky fragrance of vetiver has predominantly characterized men's fragrances for decades, some daring perfumers have ventured to create feminine woody scents and vetivers for women. In 1992, Shiseido released Féminité du Bois, the first genuine woody feminine fragrance, which remained unparalleled in its category for a long time. Later, as plant-based fragrances regained popularity, new perfumers took on the vetiver challenge with creations such as Le Baiser du Dragon by Cartier and Vétiver pour Elle by Guerlain.
Fun Facts About Vetiver
- Vetiver is often called the "Oil of Tranquility" in India and Sri Lanka due to its soothing and calming properties.
- Aside from its use in perfumery, vetiver is employed in traditional medicine to treat various ailments, including skin issues and joint pain.
- Vetiver is an effective natural insect repellent, commonly used in countries like India to ward off mosquitoes and other pests.
- The vetiver plant has robust roots that can grow 2-4 meters deep, making it an excellent tool for preventing soil erosion and stabilizing slopes.
